The last post...for now

Our Last Post for now


We spent our last few days in Istanbul enjoying the sights and sounds of the city. We didn’t do too much sightseeing but did take the public ferry up the Bosporus to the Black Sea. This body of water separates Istanbul into two parts, the European and Asian sides and is the connected by a series of bridges. As we sailed we had a great view of Istanbul as well as the small fishing villages just outside the city. The schedule ended at a small fishing village at the mouth of the Bosporus where we had a fish lunch while we waited for the ferry to return.

One of the old Ottoman mansions along the Bosporus

There were many small boats with one fisherman jigging with a hand line. The channel was full of boats large and small.

The typical Istanbul neighbourhood...lots of apartments all built on a hill with a mosque in the middle

Our fish lunch, very fresh indeed.

Enjoying our day and so wishing for some new clothes to wear as everytime we look at pictures of ourselves we always seem to be wearing the same clothes.

During these last few days we have been staying at the Metropolis Hostel which is located in the neighbourhood below the Blue Mosque. This area has lots of small hotels and hostels with a lively night life which we heard every night until about 3am! But the room was fine, the bed was comfortable and the bathroom clean which is really all we needed. It was also one third the price of a hotel.

The view from the hostel's terrace where we would go at night for a drink and meet the other guests. We were among the oldest ones,however it is nice to meet young people from all over the world and get their views on life over a beer or two.

Our very lively street

We did a lot of walking as well as taking the tram to different areas of Istanbul including the large shopping district called Taskim Square. We took the tram to the end of the line and then a funicular up to the square which is the beginning of a long pedestrian street full of upscale shops and tens of thousands of people walking from one end to the other. In the square there was another statue celebrating the War of Independence led by Ataturk. Republic Day is coming soon and everywhere there are banners flying to celebrate the occasion.

The Independence statue...we noticed everywhere we went on this trip there were great sculptures and street art which really added to the sense of place.

One of the squares we passed getting ready for Republic Day.I loved the colors of the flags and the vans.

We were sitting in the park one day watching as this older guy set up his typewriter and men lined up to pay him to do their correspondence,he seemed to be rather busy.

A street scene in front of the Blue Mosque.I liked the touch of pink from the cotton candy.

Before we left we wanted to try a Turkish bath so we splurged and went to the oldest one in Istanbul built in 1545. We went together but had separate entrances and it was an awesome experience. First you undress and they give you what looks like a large tea towel before being ushered into the inner area which is very hot and steamy. This Haman had beautiful high domes as well as a large heated marble platform where you lie for awhile so as to perspire. Then the attendant, a lady in black panties starts the procedure of throwing water on you as well as producing huge amounts of bubbles. She then scrubs you as if you were a baby…your body as well as your hair.

Lying on the hot marble stone

Getting the bubble treatment

And the scrubbing treatment...

After that you go into a smaller area with plunge pools of hot water, stay for awhile and then come back to lie on the hot marble before beginning the massage which was one of the best ever. The young women did an hour massage from head to toe and she used her elbow to try and get the kinks out of my various parts. It was painful but felt good after it was all over. I really enjoyed the experience and so did Don in the men’s quarters. One thing I noticed was that the men had no issue with coming out to the common area barely clothed but no women to be seen. This was a great way to end our time in Istanbul.

We then took Royal Jordanian Air to Montreal via Imman, Jordan and then on the next day to home. We have been reflecting on our amazing trip…on the places we have seen and the people we have met. It definitely was a trip of a lifetime and we hope that we can be lucky enough to do another one sometime soon. Two months is a long time to live out of a backpack but we managed and discovered it is a great way to see the world. Now we need to get back to our list of places to see before we die and fiqure out where to next!

Lastly I would like to thank all of you who followed the blog and either commented here or in email as to how much you enjoyed reading about our travels. Thanks because knowing there was someone taking the time to read the posts motivated me to write them and now I have a great diary of this trip.

Evil eye anyone?? The evil eye is everywhere in Turkey hanging from people's homes, cars, restaurants wherever. It is the symbol that reminds us most of Turkey, one that keeps the evil away and the good luck near. We now have one in our front porch!

We will be home now for a month until our winter trip to Mexico which will be Dec, Jan and Feb. I am going to write a blog from there as well, not every day but certainly to try and document our attempts to live in a foreign country for three months. We hope to pick up a bit of the language, learn to drink Mexican cervaza and cook the tasty Mexican cuisine. Until then Adios…

Pamukkale

Pamukkale Turkey


We spent the day in a small town of about 4000 called Pamukkale which means “white castle” in Turkish. This name comes from the travertine terraces and hot springs on the hills above the town. As you drive into town from quite a distance away you can see what looks like hills full of snow in a green fertile valley, though they are a geographical wonder that have been there for thousands of years.

Marsha and Don climbing the travertine hill

A city was founded there in 2nd century based on the therapeutic quality of the waters and continues to attract people there today to swim on the terraces or in the pools. This city called Hierlopolis was tolerant of all religions including sun pagans and the worshippers of Apollo and became a place for people to recover from their illnesses.

One of the pools on the way up

We hiked up over the travertines which we expected to be slippery but it was more like walking on soapstone. Over the years as the hot waters ran over the travertine there were many streams and pools formed. We had to remove our shoes as over the years there has been damage to the structures which can be fragile with continued use. At the top some of us visited the ancient ruins and the rest of us went to the ancient pools. It was quite a treat.

Some of us in the ancient pools,it was warm and full of algae.It also tasted sweet

Then at the end of the day we met up and went to watch the sunset from the terrace while enjoying a drink or two. We then went back to a local hotel that had hosted us for the day to one of the more familiar meals we have had since we left home…roast chicken.

This was a treat

After the great meal we took the overnight bus to Istanbul which was 11 hours, quite the experience! The bus is equipped with good wi fi, lots of movies and an attendant serving drinks and snacks. There are large reclining seats but the bus stopped so often it was hard to sleep. The bus system in Turkey is quite large and efficient as millions of Turks do not have cars. The bus stops are quite interesting for as soon as the bus pulls in and the passengers get off the men start with the water hose cleaning the bus as all of them are sparkling clean inside and out. The merchandise in the bus stops ranges from mounds of sweets of all kinds, bags of nuts, junk from China and piles of sock and underwear.

We arrived in Istanbul about 7am put our luggage in the day rooms and then spent the next few hours in the neighbourhood as we couldn’t check in until 1pm. Don and I decided to visit the Basilica cistern which was quite unique. It was built hundreds of years ago by the Romans who developed a system of collecting and storing water for the use of the city. It is quite large and supported by large huge columns of all descriptions. It seems the Romans were great engineers and architects.

Not too much light underground but a sense of the scale of the place

 

One of the columns with the upside down head of Medusa

Then back to the room for a nap and a shower to meet the group for our last meal together as everyone set out to go their separate ways. We took the ferry across the Golden Horn with Ozan to another neighbourhood which was very lively and full of locals rather than tourists and had a meal of plates that he ordered for us.This meal was very delicious because of the distinct flavours in all the dishes.

A night view of Istanbul from the ferry dock

We then said goodbye and thank you to Ozan followed by a few rounds of toasts to our leader and to a great holiday.This was another awesome group of people and we wish all of them safe travels as they return home or continue to other parts of the world.

Selcuk Turkey

Selcuk Turkey


We arrived to Selcuk around 4pm after a long bus ride from KayaKoy to check into a nice hotel in the older part of the town on the site of the ancient city of Ephesus. Selcuk has a population of approximately 30000 people and has been an agricultural community but now expanded its’ base as a popular tourist destination due to the close proximity to Ephesus. However it is still common to see tractors as well as cars on the streets.

Tractors still have the right of way





And so do men selling figs

After a short walk through town to visit the mosque we went up the mountain to visit a small town called Sirince which is known for its’ wine made from local fruits. There are lots of opportunities for wine tasting and of course shopping. I bought a lovely tablecloth for only 30l. The whole town is a national historic site so many cobbled streets and old houses.

Buying lotto tickets...I love pics of everyday life on the streets of the towns we visit

Selling her wares,in this case tablecloths

The second day has been spent among the ruins which are all close by. In the morning Don and I went to visit the Basilica of St. John the Baptist which was erected in the 4th century to commemorate his life and work. The story goes that John and Mary, the mother of Jesus, came here after the death of Jesus. He wrote the Gospel of St. John while living here and is also buried in the Basilica. The site is still very impressive covering a large area; it is believed if it was still standing it would be one of the largest cathedrals in the world.

A row of colums that once held the roof of the catherdral

There are mosques everywhere that seem always to be calling to prayer,this one was just across the street and would wake us each morning at 4am.Who goes to church at that hour?

Nearby is the Temple of Artemis which when built was one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. We didn’t walk there but did get a picture from the top of the hill. There is only one column topped with a storks nest and some foundations left.



Here it is the only remains of a once grand temple,everywhere we look in Turkey there is another ancient ruin


This afternoon we all went to Ephesus with a local guide who was quite colourful and an excellent story teller; he really kept us entertained with the history and culture of this great site. What is Ephesus? It is the best preserved classical city in the eastern Mediterranean and Turkey’s premier tourist attraction. We were lucky that the loads of bus tours were not there today.

Sitting with our guide under the shade of a pear tree

This ancient city was very sophisticated with running water, public toilets, renowned medical facilities and Romans baths. It is quite something to see and as of now it is only 18% excavated. It is at least 1500 years old and at its’ prime held half a million people. It is amazing to see the architecture both grand and detailed as we explored the sight.

One view of the city

The mosiacs on the shopping street were amazing

The awesome public library with an underground tunnel to the brothel

One area that is well preserved is the theatre which seats 25,000 people with beautiful acoustics. An interesting note was that St. Paul came here to preach Christianity and write his letter to the Ephesians. He was jailed a number of times but survived his persecution here. Again, I did not realise that this part of the world is where the apostles came after the death of Jesus to spread the Gospel.

Marsha trying out the acoustics

Trying out the public toilets

After we left Ephesus we walked into a nearly town where we had the opportunity to make gozleme, the Turkish pancake, as well as enjoy them for supper. It was a neat place with the women working on the olives, keeping the fire going as well as making us dinner.

Hope Don does not get any ideas about being a sultan!

We ended the evening smoking nargile on the rooftop terrace of our hotel.

I am not a smoker but enjoyed the apple and mint combination

Kayakoy Turkey

Kayakoy Turkey


We spent a couple of days in this little town of about 200 people in rural Turkey. Our accommodation was at a place called Villa Rhapsody which was situated in a beautiful garden with a pool and outside bar.

Some of the group walking through the village

In the middle of Kayakoy is a deserted medieval Ottoman Greek village called Levissi which was once home to 7000 people. After the Greek-Turkey war in 1919-1922 there was a forced migration in 1924 of all the ethnic Greek Christians from Turkey and all the Turkish Muslims from Greece. This was one of the world’s largest population swaps when over a million people were forced to leave their homes. As a result this village is now a ghost town as when the Christians left and the Muslims were given their homes they could not sustain the agricultural way of life and left the village to ruin.

These are just some of the houses on the hillside

After that the 2000 stone houses fell into disrepair or were plundered by people in the nearby villages. This place is very eerie as you walk through and think about how these people made their life there and all of a sudden had to leave for a strange land. When they arrived in Greece they could not speak the language and were spurned on their arrival as were many of the Turkish Muslims who came back to Turkey.

Remains of a fireplace in one of the houses

Another view

We hiked through the village and the only sign of life were a few people selling souvenirs and a few goats and chickens running around. We stopped at the shell of what once must have been a beautiful Greek Ottoman church as well as explored some of the ruins of the houses. The town was located on a hillside that overlooked the valley with wonderful views.

You can easily get a sense of how grand this church was before it was abandoned

After that some of us with Ozan hiked further up the hill and then did a few hours walking on the Lycian Way which is a very famous hiking trail that runs through this part of Turkey for many kms. The part we did was quite steep in places but gave commanding views of both the ghost village on one side and the sea on the other. When we got to the other side we came upon a beautiful sandy beach with some great cafes so we enjoyed a much deserved cold beer!

Our group at the top of the mountain

The beautiful sandy beach on the other side

Other than that this was a rest stop so that is what we did. Luckily we finished our hike before torrential rains, thunder and lightning hit. This storm went on for hours so there was no swimming in the pool but the storm did not stop a few from enjoying themselves. The owners told us that the weather in this part of the world is also changing as it is much colder and much wetter than in the past.

It's never to wet to have a drink

Oh yes, the first night we arrived we took a minibus into the nearby town of Fethiye for a fish supper at the fish market. We got to choose our fish fresh from a varied display and then have it cooked and served with salad and bread for an additional 5 l. We are not sure what we chose but it was a white fish perfectly grilled and served to perfection.

Trying to decide

So much to choose from

Speaking of food, our hosts were also great cooks and we enjoyed a number of meals there including Spaghetti Bolognese which Don declared was the best pasta he has ever eaten as well as smoked trout and a Moroccan stew with baked figs for dessert. Even though I am looking forward to some familiar food when I get home I will certainly remember the great food we have eaten on this trip.

Smoked trout...it is so good to be on the coast as there is so much fresh seafood available

This was also a laundry stop so here are some of us trying to fiqure out who owns what...we still didn't find out who owned the sexy pink underwear!

Kas Turkey

Kas Turkey


We just spent a couple of days in Kas which is a small tourist town way down on the southern coast of Turkey. It is tucked into a curved bay with a Greek island just a couple of kms offshore. Again, this is a very upscale place as seen by the hotels, restaurants and cafes. There were still a few tourists around including lots of families.

One of the many shops we saw when we walked through the main square

Kas doesn’t have any sandy beaches but lots of places to jump into the turquoise water which is still quite warm. Kas is located in the Lycian part of Turkey and surprisingly littered with old sarcophagi as well as tombs all over the town. The streets are quite charming with little shops everywhere. It also has an ancient theater at the top of the hill to which we climbed on our first night here. One thing about this trip are the number of times we have climbed up and down to see ancient ruins as well as underground cities.

A house built on top of an ancient tomb

The centuries old theatre overlooking the harbour,we could just imagine the performances that had taken place there

Our accommodations are quite nice as well, a small hotel almost at the end of the town away from the center overlooking the sea with a nice swimming pool and bar. Both evenings were warm enough for short pants and a shawl, a treat to sit out without flies or freezing!

View from our balcony

Our second day the sun was hot and the sky was clear which was perfect for our day on the bay. We took a minibus to a nearby town that has established itself as a base for boating and sea kayaking. We had a great boat with only our group and two others and we thoroughly enjoyed the day by…

Swimming

Don looks as if he is holding on for dear life!

Meanwhile I really enjoyed my swim

Sunbathing

This was a great way to spend a sunny day on the water

Eating

The crew prepared some side dishes to go with our grilled kebabs

Sailing over sunken cities

Along this coastline there is a sunken city as a result of an eathquake centuries ago. Turkey is a country that is still known for earthquakes.

Climbing of course

Another picture of ancient ruins

Don climbed with part of the group to an old city on top of the hill

While I sat in the village and took in the sights.

The cats are waiting for lunch

Tonight we had a free night to our own devices so we set out to find a nice seafood restaurant which we did. It was the first time we had eaten octopus and the shrimps were done just right over charcoal.

Grilled octopus...it tastes like chicken

This stop was quite pleasant as we were by the water and the more we are away from the ocean the more we miss it.