Tuesday, March 27, 2018

Mumbai, India

After saying goodbye to our Intrepid group we flew 1200 kms south to the city of Mumbai, formerly called Bombay. It is located on India’s west coast and is the largest city in the country as well as being the financial Center having the most wealthiest citizens loving here.

We were hoping to stay in the iconic Taj Mahal Palace Hotel but at 800 CAD a night our budget wouldn’t allow it so we splurged a little to stay in a boutique hotel just behind it. Though we did see that Hillary Clinton was a guest while we were there...

The Taj Mahal Palace Hotel....



Part of the Taj Hotels and Palaces group, this hotel is considered the flagship property of the group and contains 560 rooms and 44 suites. There are some 1,600 staff including 35 butlers. In 2017 it was the first building in the country to get intellectual property protection based on its architectural design.

When it opened in 1903, the hotel was the first in India to have: electricity, American fans, German elevators, Turkish baths and English butlers. Later it also had the city’s first licensed bar, India’s first all-day restaurant, and the India’s first discothèque.

We did make it past security to get a peek inside the lobby, it is quite fancy...



Taj Mahal Palace Hotel was specifically chosen by an Islamic militant organization for an attack in 2008 so that it will be "striking a blow against a symbol of Indian wealth and progress". There were 167 people killed during the siege with many of them foreigners. This hotel is a famous Mumbai landmark for many reasons.

Nearby there is another symbol of Mumbai which is the Gateway of India monument, the top tourist attraction in the city as could be seen by the crowds of people there...




The Gateway of India was built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary to Mumbai, in  December 1911...



Since India was controlled by Britain this archway became very much the symbol of their ownership as it was considered the ceremonial entry and exit to India through which all the British leaders landed and entered.

It is 85 feet high and is located in South Mumbai overlooking the Arabian Sea...



Another interesting fact that is also quite symbolic was the scene of the last British troops to leave India following the country’s independence passing through the Gateway on their way out in a ceremony on February 28,1948 signalling the end of British rule of India. 

A popular activity is to take a short boat ride from the Gateway out into Mumbai Harbour which is a natural deep water port. We decided to take the rickety boat ride and were the only non Indians on the boat..


Family waiting to get on the boat...







An Indian family enjoying the ride




The boat was crowded...

Some of the views...



Very expensive ocean side neighbourhoods...

The skyline view from the water...



We also passed a naval yard and it is interesting to note that India has one of the largest naval fleets in the world...



One oneOn 

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One of the first things that we noticed in Mumbai was the heat, much hotter than the north and it took some adjustment. I was out of commission for a couple of days while there with maybe the combination of heat and a bug I picked up on the plane. I was so happy to have the luxury of a nice, air conditioned hotel room! 

And cold beverages...



One of the first things we noticed about Mumbai was the cleanliness compared to other parts of India, the streets were clean and organized...




Lots of roundabouts...



Seeking shade...



Also lots of interesting architecture though somewhat crumbling in places...




The Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (translation: 'king Shivaji museum'), and formerly named the Prince of Wales Museum of Western India, is the main museum in Mumbai. It was founded in the early years of the 20th century by prominent citizens of Mumbai,with the help of the government, to commemorate the visit of Edward VIII who was Prince of Wales at the time. It is located in the heart of South Mumbai near the Gateway of India. The museum was renamed in the 1990s after Shivaji, the founder of the Maratha Empire. 



It is set in very beautiful, well kept gardens...



There were many exhibits inside the building...




Soaring entry hall...

Ancient sculptures...



Many of them of gods and goddesses which are numerous in India...



India also has a long history creating exquisite objects in ivory...



A ceremonial necklace...

And in silver, a wine flask...



It was an interesting visit, again another look of the splendor of this country’s art and history. 

Another day we took a tour of the city with our first visit to the early morning fishmarket. Mumbai being on the ocean has a large fishing fleet...



The market was quite lively with sellars and buyers moving the fish...







Sellars from the neighbourhoods of Mumbai come looking for the freshest fish at the best prices then return to their fish stands around the city to sell their product during the day. 

One of the most popular products here are the prawns which are cleaned by the women before they are sold...



This guy was an expert at cleaning the stingray...



We then stopped at a traditional laundry, one of the oldest in the city...



People living in this neighbourhood are the cleaners who wash and dry tons of clothes everyday as most people do not own washing machines...



It is all done by hand...



Piles of clothes...



A huge open cricket field in the middle of the city...



I remember playing cricket as a child with a stick, ball and can but these guys are serious players, it is a very popular sport in India...



There are many buildings in Mumbai that are reminiscent of Britain. The Rajabai Clock Tower was designed by Sir George Gilbert Scott,an English architect who modeled it on Big Ben in London.The foundation stone was laid on 1 March 1869 and construction was completed in November 1878. The total cost of construction came to 550,000, a princely sum in those days. A portion of the total cost of construction was donated by a prosperous broker who founded the Bombya Stock Exchange on the condition that the tower be named after his mother Rajabai.

Premchand Roychand's mother was blind and as a staunch follower of Jain religion she was supposed to consume her dinner before evening. Legend says that the evening bell of the tower helped her to know the time without anyone's help.

The tower was closed to the public after it became a frequent spot for those attempting to commit suicide.



The main railway station was the former palace of Queen Victoria, another beautiful building...






Mumbai also has a long pedestrian walkway called Marine Drive...




Enjoying the morning...



At the end of the walkway there is an upscale neighbourhood called Malabar Hill where we stopped at a lovely garden...



Don and our guide, Sunny...



One of the expensive properties nearby had a beautiful rooftop garden...



A colorful temple with an interesting story...



This Hindu sect does not cremate its’ dead, rather there is a nearby concrete tower which is open at the top where they hang the dead bodies and they are picked clean by the birds. Area residents complain that the birds often land on their balconies with parts of the bodies and demanded  the practice be stopped. They were unsuccessful because it is a religious ritual. 

And finally a stop at Ghandi’s house...



His library...


He was a well read man...

Some of his sayings...



His reception room...




On January 31, Ghandi was cremated and from the pyre came this message...

Lead me from the Unreal to the Real, From Darkness to Light, from Death to Immortality...



Another great visit to understand a little more about Ghandi and his life’s work...

We enjoyed our visit to Mumbai as it gave us a view of a city so different from Delhi, much history of the British rule and today a very modern and prosperous city. Now on to Goa and the beach...

Monday, March 19, 2018

Agra, India

Our last train trip with the group brought us to Agra, the home of the famous Taj Mahal, of course the train was late...



Still waiting!

While in India you will not miss a stop in a carpet shop, this one in Agra was a government run one that did beautiful double knotted work with each knot being tied by hand...




The work was so intricate and beautiful!



The Indian government has banned heavy industry in this area due to the potential damage to the Taj Mahal and Red Fort, both of which are UNESCO heritage sites. As a result there are many rug and textile shops all over the area. I was tempted but got out of there with my credit card intact!

We had been looking forward to seeing the Taj Mahal ever since we came to India as it is probably the most famous site that is indicative of India.

Even the gate is enormous....




Our first glimpse of this magnificant building...




Shah Jahan was a member of the Mughal dynasty that ruled most of northern India from the early 16th to the mid 18th-century. After the death of his father, King Jahangir, in 1627, Shah Jahan emerged the victor of a bitter power struggle with his brothers, and crowned himself emperor at Agra in 1628. At his side was Arjumand Banu Begum, better known as Mumtaz Mahal (“Chosen One of the Palace”), whom he married in 1612 and cherished as the favorite of his three queens.

In 1631, Mumtaz Mahal died after giving birth to the couple’s 14th child. The grieving Shah Jahan, known for commissioning a number of impressive structures throughout his reign, ordered the building of a magnificent mausoleum across the Yamuna River from his own royal palace at Agra. Construction began around 1632 and would continue for the next two decades. The chief architect was probably Ustad Ahmad Lahouri, an Indian of Persian descent who would later be credited with designing the Red Fort at Delhi. In all, more than 20,000 workers from India, Persia, Europe and the Ottoman Empire, along with some 1,000 elephants, were brought in to build the mausoleum complex.
 
The Taj Mahal is the jewel of Muslim art in India and one of the universally admired masterpieces of the world's heritage.

Once inside the gate you see the full grandeur of the structure...



It is surrounded by gardens and reflecting pools...





And lots of people, mostly Indian tourists...




This well dressed family were keen to have their photo taken with us...





The Taj Mahal is a perfect symmetrical planned building, with an emphasis of bilateral symmetry along a central axis on which the main features are placed. The building material used is brick-in-lime mortar veneered with red sandstone and marble and inlay work of precious/semi precious stones.

Some of the detail....






The calligraphy of the Taj Mahal mainly consists of the verses and passages from the holy book of Quran. It was done by inlaying jasper in the white marble panels. These passages were inscribed by Amanat Khan in an illegible Thuluth script.




In Keeping with the symmetry of the tomb he also built two identical buildings on each side, one is an empty building and the other is a mosque...







It is a beautiful building as well...



We walked all around the tomb which is massive, a side view...



To enter the top platform and visit the interior shoe covers needed to be worn and there were long lines to get inside...




Inside the Taj Mahal, the cenotaphs honoring Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan are enclosed in an eight-sided chamber ornamented with pietra dura (an inlay with semi-precious stones) and a marble lattice screen. But the gorgeous monuments are just for show: The real sarcophagi are in a quiet room below, at garden level.



There are no pictures allowed inside so I found this one on the internet. It shows both of the tombs with one being larger than the other and not in perfect symmetry like the rest of the structure. The marble was quite beautiful.  

All many inlays inside such as this one...



With so many people and such a hot day there were lots of places to get some shade...








Our picture taken by a local...



Outside the gates were men offering to take our picture for 100 rupees which we declined, but then as we were trying to fiqure out where to get the best shot this man quietly comes over, takes the camera and moves us to this spot. He takes a number of pictures, but asks for no money though we know that what he is expecting. So here are our 100 rupee shots...they got us anyway!



I expected the building to be totally white but it is made of different colours of marble that seem to glow in the sunlight...





A view back towards the gate...




One last view on the way out...




Another famous building in Agra is the Red Fort of Agra.... It was the main residence of the emperors of the Mugal Dynasty till 1638, when the capital was shifted from Agra to Delhi. 



It is a massive complex with 70 feet high walls surrounded by two moats. Bricks formed the base of Agra Fort’s structure. Red sandstone was brought all the way from Rajasthan and that was laid on the external surfaces. Back then, the entire fort was built using the red sandstone.





We went early in the morning before it was too hot and the early morning sun was beautiful against the walls....



Approaching one of the four gates to the complex...



Here is another one...

The Fort is located across the river from the Taj Mahal which was almost visible in the morning smog!



The fort has huge courtyards...





But what impressed me the most was the detailed work everywhere we looked...









In all types of material...



 This appearance of the fort underwent a major change during the reign of Shah Jahan who built the nearby Taj Mahal.  Unlike his grandfather, Shah Jahan was smitten by the beauty of white marble. Hence, he destroyed many structures within the fort, only to rebuild them using white marble.








He built identical small palaces for two of his daughters, one for his favourite daughter and the other for his not so favourite daughter. One was built from solid marble and the other painted to look like marble.

Shah Jahan was made to spend his final days in the Musamman Burj of the Agra fort, which was built by him. He was imprisoned there by his grandson who overthrew him. It is a beautiful octagonal tower with an open pavilion. It is said that Shah Jahan used to view the Taj Mahal from this very place.



Looking out to see the Taj Mahal...



The glamour shots...




This guy was walking around trying to sell his book containing “ the Truth “



Beautiful archways...









Another glimpse into the history and architecture of India!