Arequipa, Peru

Our next stop in Peru found us in Arequipa, Peru’s second largest city and one that is often overlooked by tourists visiting the country. Even though it is located in the Andes at around 8000 ft above sea level it does not feel like an Andean city but much more like a Spanish one.

It is called “ the White City” as many of its’ building are made from Sillar which is volcanic stone taken from the volcanoes that ring the city.

We stayed in a lovely apartment (owned by a Canadian-Peruvian couple from Toronto) with a gorgeous terrace that had a view of Volcano Misti which is still an active volcano and is quite prominent from everywhere in the city...

Our terrace...

Our view of Misti...

We were both wondering how we would adjust to the new altitude, the first day went well but the second day altitude sickness hit with a vengeance! Don had difficulty breathing and I diagnosed myself with moderate level illness since I was vomiting, had diarrhea, and a vicious headache. Coco tea helped Don with his breathing but I was in bed for two full days until my body said it was ok to get up. Man, it was awful! And really besides coca tea, rest, lots of water, no alcohol, no solid food, altitude sickness pills there is not much more to be done. It seems anyone can be a victim regardless of age or fitness level.

As a result our usual walking and exploring the city was kept to a minimum but we did manage to see some things and get a feel for the place. We stayed in Yanahuara, a very traditional neighbourhood a little outside the centre of the city. It still had narrow, cobblestone streets...

Many of the houses had these baskets with geraniums in them...

And again were almost all made of white Sillar...

And the local churches as well...

Another feature of the local neighbourhood is the picanteria,a restaurant which serves traditional Peruvian food. We did make it to one on our first day there...

Peruvian food often comes in larger portions for sharing, this is roasted pork served with the national vegetable, potato...

Arequipa is known for its’ foodie scene so we were sorry not to get to experience much of it, though we saw some inviting places as we walked...

We managed one more meal out while we were there and it wasn’t Peruvian, but a plate of freshly made Pasta served with a crisp Peruvian wine. The hole in the wall restaurant was away from the main drag but I think the young chefs will do well, it was delicious!

There was also lots of upscale shopping especially for textiles made of alpaca...

There are alpacas and llamas grazing in the parks around the city...

Though not everyone in this city can afford high priced items, as we were walking one morning we passed this line up and asked what they were doing and were told they were lining up for money from the government...

The main plaza, Plaza de Armes is quite large...

On one side it is flanked by a massive Cathedral, the only one in Peru that covers a full length of a plaza...

Its construction started in 1540, the same year that the city of Arequipa was founded, it was built in volcanic stone and bricks reflecting an eclectic style that encompasses the  neoclassical, neo-Renaissance and Gothic.

Throughout its history was destroyed by fire, earthquakes and volcanic explosions. It was restored after each destruction, the last in 2001.

Another view of the main plaza, it was always busy...

Not far from Plaza de Armes is another beautiful square called San Francisco which provides lots of shade and seating...

It was here we were supposed to meet the guide for the walking tour, made three attempts but didn’t have the energy to do it! 

One of the main tourist sites in the city is the Santa Carolina Monastery. It occupies a whole block and guarded by imposing high walls, it is one of the most fascinating religious buildings in Peru. Nor is it just a religious building – the 20,000-sq-meter complex is almost a citadel within the city. It was founded in 1580 by a rich widow, doña María de Guzmán and was a cloistered order of about 220 nuns and as of today there are 23 nuns living there. Traditionally only daughters of rich Spanish families were allowed to enter and their families paid a high dowry for the privilege. Here are some photos of our visit...

The entrance...

The walls are painted in natural pigments making for beautiful vignettes...

Beautiful corridors...

The Oranges Courtyard, one where the Graduated Novices lived...

The laundry area...

This place went on and on with a beautiful photo opportunity around every corner...

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Love the way the light reflects on these old baking dishes in the communal kitchen...

Red on blue...red gerenauims grow everywhere in this city. 

And finally as we were leaving Don decided to check this out...

Another place to visit in Arequipa is the Andean Sanctuary Museum, home to the ‘mummy’ Juanita. Juanita is in fact not a mummy but a frozen 12 year old Inca girl who was sacrificed to the gods in the 1450s.

Considered the best preserved of all the Inca” mummies” in the Andes,  Juanita is an incredible representation of what it meant to be an Incan sacrifice. It would have been a true privilege of the parents for their child to be selected as a sacrifice. Juanita – like other human sacrifices – would have been led up the cold mountain with priests before being sacrificed, carrying with them the likes of coca leaves, food and offerings that formed part of this ritual. Juanita herself would have been dressed in her finest, for what was a highly symbolic ritual for the Gods. When she was discovered, she was bundled with burial items that would have accompanied her, including miniature llamas.

In 1995, the scholar Johan Reinhard, a specialist in high altitude archaeology, discovered Juanita’s well-preserved remains shortly after the eruption of a neighboring volcano melted the ice that encased her tomb high atop the Ampato’s peak. Scientific study of the mummy’s remains, including DNA analysis, have afforded great insights into Inca culture.

She is still very life like, no photos are allowed to be taken so this one is from an internet source. An interesting view into INCA history of this area.

We wish we could see and experience more of Arequipa, but it was time to move on so we gingerly got ourselves on the plane and headed further south and 2000 feet higher!